Interpretation of beach and nearshore morphodynamics, based on detailed geomorphological mapping

Shorelines are prefigured by inherited geologic features and spatially-defined process-form relationships that require in depth study. This thesis is based on the interpretation, delineation, and analysis of coastal geomorphological features, as mapped from large-scale (e.g. 1:3600), digital, georeferenced, stereo-paired, color, aerial photography. The morphologic features identified include coral-algae reef tracts, rock reefs, sedimentary features such as bars, troughs, and sandflats, and different types of engineering works. Interrelationships between these morphologic features are analyzed using a remote sensing-GIS/MIS (Geographic and Marine Information Systems) framework, and applying interpretive approaches in the analysis of beach and nearshore morphodynamics. Sediment and wave data is used to calculate the dimensionless fall velocity (O), which combined with local geomorphology, defines beach types. Special purpose geomorphological and morphodynamic maps generated here, together with assessment of beach types and analysis of downdrift erosion provides new insights and deep understanding of large scale coastal behavior, which is of great use to management planning strategies.