Model
Digital Document
Publisher
Florida Atlantic University
Description
Edge waves are the longshore, trapped waves; their
amplitude diminishes exponentially seaward from the
shoreline. Ursell [1] has shown that there is a family of
edge wave solutions of the shallow water equations, and Ball
[2] provided a normal mode solution for the exponential
beach. This study investigated, experimentally, the
excitation of edge waves on a concave exponential beach by
waves normally incident on the beach. The experimental
investigation included the study of edge wave frequency,
amplitude and particle motions. The results indicated that
resonance occurs under suitable conditions for edge wave
excitation. Viscosity, nonlinearity and defraction at the
beach sidewalls reduced agreement between experiments and
theory. The effects of these parameters on edge waves
should be explored in more detail in further research.
amplitude diminishes exponentially seaward from the
shoreline. Ursell [1] has shown that there is a family of
edge wave solutions of the shallow water equations, and Ball
[2] provided a normal mode solution for the exponential
beach. This study investigated, experimentally, the
excitation of edge waves on a concave exponential beach by
waves normally incident on the beach. The experimental
investigation included the study of edge wave frequency,
amplitude and particle motions. The results indicated that
resonance occurs under suitable conditions for edge wave
excitation. Viscosity, nonlinearity and defraction at the
beach sidewalls reduced agreement between experiments and
theory. The effects of these parameters on edge waves
should be explored in more detail in further research.
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